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the live well on my 2017 skeeter tzx190 doesn’t work

Gotcha, let’s get that Skeeter’s livewell back breathin’. “Doesn’t work” can mean a few different things on a TZX190, so I’ll walk you through fast checks and then deeper troubleshooting. We’ll keep it simple and safe.

First, a couple quick questions to pinpoint it:

• Are you testing in the water or on the trailer? (The fill/aerator pump won’t pull water on the trailer.)
• Is it not filling, not recirculating, not pumping out, or totally dead?
• Do you hear any pump humming when you flip Aerator/Recirc/Pump-Out switches?
• Do your switch lights come on? Any fuses/breakers already checked?
• Do you have a 3-position livewell lever (Auto/Recirc/Empty) by the throttle, and what position is it in?

Fast 3-minute triage

• Master power on. Battery 12.4V+ at rest.
• Flip Aerator/Recirc/Pump-Out one at a time. Listen at the bilge hatch for any pump hum.
• Check the livewell lever/cable (if equipped) is in AUTO/OPEN to fill from the lake. If it’s in RECIRC, it won’t pull lake water.
• If you’re on the trailer: the fill pump will seem “dead” (it can spin but won’t move water). You can only test recirc on a tub of water or in the lake.

Step-by-step troubleshooting for a 2017 Skeeter TZX190
Tools: Phillips screwdriver, 10mm, flashlight, multimeter, small mirror, zip ties, silicone spray, spare 5–10A fuses.

1) Access the bilge area

• Open rear center compartment. You should see: bilge pump, livewell fill/aerator pump (to transom pickup), recirc pump(s) to spray bar(s), and a Flow-Rite valve with a cable (if equipped).

2) Electrical: if a pump is silent

• Check fuses/breakers:
  • Under the console you’ll have a fuse panel; Aerator/Recirc circuits are typically 5–10 amps. Also look for push-to-reset breakers near the battery.
• Test for 12V at the pump connector:
  • Set multimeter to DC volts. With the Aerator switch ON, probe the pump’s two wires. 12–13V = power is good; pump cartridge likely failed or jammed. 0V = switch/timer/wiring/fuse issue.
• Quick cross-check:
  • If your bilge pump works, briefly hook the bilge’s hot/ground to the aerator pump leads to see if the aerator motor spins. If it still won’t spin with known good power, replace the cartridge.
• Timer bypass test:
  • If you have a livewell timer mode, try Manual/Constant. If Manual runs but Timer doesn’t, your timer module is bad.

3) Plumbing: pump runs but no water fills

• In the water? Make sure the livewell lever is in AUTO/OPEN. RECIRC closes the valve and isolates the tank.
• Prime/airlock: Sometimes the fill pump airlocks at idle. Run the boat on plane 20–30 seconds or bump in reverse to purge air, then try again.
• Backflush the intake:
  • Remove a spray-head/nozzle inside the livewell. Hold a garden hose tight to the spray line and run water to push debris back out the transom pickup. You should see water flushing at the transom scoop. This clears grass/sand stuck at the intake/strainer.
• Inspect hoses for kinks and the anti-siphon/check valve for blockage (some systems have a ball-type check valve at/near the pickup).
• If the lever feels loose/sloppy: the cable may be out of adjustment. At the Flow-Rite valve, loosen the cable clamp, set lever to AUTO, rotate the valve to fully open, and re-tighten so the handle hits full travel in all 3 positions. Lube the cable with silicone.

4) Recirculation issues (fills fine, but no spray/aeration)

• With Recirc ON, you should see a steady spray from the bar. If the pump hums but no spray:
  • The recirc pump cartridge may be jammed or the spray bar clogged (unscrew caps and rinse).
  • Check for 12V at the recirc pump as in step 2. Replace the cartridge if powered but seized.

5) Draining/pump-out problems

• If the well won’t drain on EMPTY: either the Flow-Rite valve isn’t reaching EMPTY, or the diverter is clogged. Verify the lever fully rotates the valve.
• If pump-out feature is weak/dead: check that the dedicated pump-out switch actually powers the pump (12V test). Some setups use the recirc pump with a diverter; others have a separate pump-out port/nozzle that can clog.

6) Cartridge pump replacement (common fix)

• Most Skeeters of that era use Johnson/Mayfair-style twist-lock cartridge pumps (typically 500–800 GPH, 3/4″ hose). If you’ve got 12V but no spin, twist counter-clockwise, pull the cartridge, and drop in a new one. Keep the o-ring clean and seated. Match GPH and connector style.
• If the plastic housing is cracked (freeze damage), replace the base/housing too.

7) Common TZX190 gotchas

• Testing on the trailer: the fill pump “runs” but can’t move water; looks like a failure when it isn’t.
• Flow-Rite V3 valve cable out of adjustment: valve stuck in recirc so the well never fills.
• Corroded grounds in the bilge/battery compartment: pull, clean, and reattach with dielectric grease.
• Timer module failures: Manual works, Timer doesn’t.

Tournament-day workaround if needed

• Fill with a bucket at the ramp, set valve to RECIRC, and run the recirc pump manual. Add ice/KeepAlive or G-Juice, keep lids cracked for air, and monitor temps with a cheap digital thermometer. Swap a frozen bottle mid-day.

If you want parts and links

• I can pull exact pump/valve part numbers and best current prices (Johnson/Mayfair cartridges, Flow-Rite V3 valve/cable, aerator timers) and send direct links. Say the word and I’ll browse.

What I need from you to go next

• Are you testing in water or on the trailer?
• Which function is out: Fill, Recirc, Pump-Out, or all?
• Do you hear any pump noise when switches are on?
• Do your switch LEDs light up? Any fuses blown?
• Photo of your bilge area (pumps/valve) and the console livewell switches/lever would help a ton.

Validation

• Try the quick triage (switches, listen for pump, valve position) and, if possible, the 12V-at-pump test. Report back what you find, and I’ll zero in on the exact fix or walk you through the cartridge/valve swap step-by-step.